Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Gardens
Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage pulls into a graffiti-covered stop. Close by, a police siren cuts through the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers hurry past falling apart, ivy-covered fencing panels as rain clouds form.
It is maybe the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established vineyard. But one local grower has managed to 40 mature vines heavy with plump mauve berries on a rambling allotment sandwiched between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of Bristol town centre.
"I've seen individuals concealing illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," states the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is not the only local vintner. He's pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who produce wine from four discreet urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and allotments throughout Bristol. The project is sufficiently underground to possess an official name so far, but the collective's WhatsApp group is called Vineyard Dreams.
City Wine Gardens Across the Globe
So far, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming global directory, which includes better-known city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the slopes of Paris's renowned Montmartre neighbourhood and over 3,000 vines overlooking and inside Turin. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative reviving city vineyards in historic wine-producing nations, but has discovered them all over the world, including cities in East Asia, South Asia and Central Asia.
"Vineyards help cities stay greener and more diverse. They protect land from construction by establishing long-term, productive farming plots within urban environments," says the association's president.
Similar to other vintages, those created in cities are a product of the soils the plants grow in, the unpredictability of the climate and the individuals who tend the fruit. "Each vintage represents the charm, community, landscape and heritage of a city," notes the spokesperson.
Unknown Polish Grapes
Returning to Bristol, the grower is in a urgent timeline to harvest the grapevines he cultivated from a plant abandoned in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the rain arrives, then the birds may take advantage to attack again. "This is the enigmatic Eastern European grape," he says, as he cleans damaged and rotten berries from the shimmering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they're definitely hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Pinot Noir, white wine grapes and additional renowned European varieties – you don't have to treat them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."
Collective Activities Throughout the City
Additional participants of the group are also making the most of sunny interludes between showers of fall precipitation. On the terrace with views of the city's glistening harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with barrels of vintage from France and Spain, Katy Grant is collecting her dark berries from approximately 50 vines. "I love the smell of the grapevines. The scent is so reminiscent," she says, pausing with a container of fruit slung over her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."
The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has spent over two decades working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, inadvertently took over the vineyard when she returned to the UK from East Africa with her family in 2018. She felt an strong responsibility to maintain the grapevines in the garden of their new home. "This vineyard has previously endured three different owners," she explains. "I really like the concept of environmental care – of passing this on to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from the soil."
Terraced Gardens and Natural Production
A short walk away, the final two members of the group are hard at work on the steep inclines of the local river valley. One filmmaker has cultivated more than 150 vines situated on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the muddy local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, gesturing towards the interwoven grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing grapevine lines in a city street."
Today, Scofield, 60, is harvesting clusters of deep violet dark berries from rows of vines arranged along the cliff-side with the help of her child, Luca. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and BBC Two's gardening shows, was motivated to cultivate vines after observing her neighbour's grapevines. She's discovered that hobbyists can produce interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for more than seven pounds a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments specialising in low-processing wines. "It is deeply rewarding that you can truly make good, natural wine," she says. "It's very fashionable, but in reality it's reviving an traditional method of making wine."
"When I tread the fruit, the various wild yeasts come off the skins into the liquid," explains Scofield, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, pips and red liquid. "This represents how wines were historically produced, but industrial wineries add sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the natural cultures and then incorporate a lab-grown yeast."
Difficult Conditions and Creative Solutions
A few doors down sprightly retiree another cultivator, who motivated Scofield to establish her grapevines, has gathered his companions to pick white wine varieties from the 100 vines he has laid out neatly across two terraces. The former teacher, a northern English PE teacher who worked at the local university developed a passion for wine on regular visits to Europe. However it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the gorge, with cooling tides moving through from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers," says the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and very sensitive to mildew."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the only challenge faced by winegrowers. Reeve has been compelled to erect a barrier on